Everything we know about lighting is changing faster and faster. As of January 1, 2012, all light bulb packaging will be changing as we move from Watts to Lumens! Incandescent bulbs will be unavailable in a couple of short years! As with other technologies, we have found ways to make LED light bulbbetter lights, with true colors, using far less energy and save money over time. These lights are called LED’s, or Light Emitting Diodes. They have been around since 1962, traditionally used as indicator lamps in many devices and increasingly used for other lighting. Early LEDs emitted low-intensity red light, but modern versions are available with very high brightness, or Lumens.

LEDs are often small, and present many advantages over incandescent light sources including lower energy consumption, longer lifetime, improved robustness, smaller size, and faster switching. LEDs powerful enough for room lighting are relatively expensive, but as shown in the chart below, a very economical choice over time:

 Cost Comparison : LEDs, CFLs and Incandescent bulbs

  LED CFL Incandescent
Light bulb projected lifespan 50,000 hours 10,000 hours 1,200 hours
Watts per bulb (equiv. 60 watts) 6 14 60
Cost per bulb $35.95 $3.95 $1.25
KWh of electricity used over 300 700 3000
50,000 hours
Cost of electricity (@ 0.10per KWh) $30 $70 $300
Bulbs needed for 50k hours of use 1 5 42
Equivalent 50k hours bulb expense $35.95 $19.75 $52.50
Total cost for 50k hours $65.95 $89.75  $352.50

 

Here are three new definitions you should learn before you purchase your next light bulb or light fixture. Keep in mind that in a couple of short years, you will no longer be able to purchase regular incandescent bulbs, they are being completely phased out in the United States.

Lumena unit of standard measurement that is used to describe the amount of light contained in an area as perceived by the human eye. The more lumens, the brighter the light. Here’s the key, you can use lumens to compare the brightness of any bulb, regardless of the technology behind it, and regardless of whether it’s incandescent, CFL or LED.

Coloring Rendering Index (CRI) – CRI represents the quality of light and its faithfulness to render colors correctly. The CREE CR6 bulb, for example, features a CRI of 90 Warm White making it one of the highest in the industry.

 Correlated Color Temperature (CCT)is the measure used to describe the relative color appearance of a white light source. CCT indicates whether a light source appears more yellow/gold/orange or more blue, in terms of the range of available shades of “white.” CCT is given in kelvins (unit of absolute temperature). 2700K is “Warm” and 5000K is “Cool”. (Which seems the opposite of what it should be!)

This is the new vocabulary of lighting and bulb manufacturers. When you go to the store, you will see something like this on the packaging, depending on the type:

Incandescent Watts CFL Watts LED Watts Lumens (Brightness)
40  8 to 12 4 to 5 450
60 13 to 18 6 to 8 890
75 – 100 18 to 22 9 to 13 1210
100 23to 30 16 – 20 1750
150 30 – 55 25 – 28 2780

It may take a little getting used to, but it’s better to know as much as possible about lighting your home, landscape, or business, especially when huge cost saving benefits over the lifespan of your lumens!

HB Building and Design can light up your life with a new lighting design and installation to prepare you for the future. We are lighting specialists! Call for a free quote 650-728-5878.

 

by Virginia Maddan, guest blogger

A common conversation my new clients initiate when I arrive at our first appointment unfolds as follows:
New client: “I just want to warn you that my place is a total mess.”
Me: “That’s ok! That’s what I’m here for. I’m sure it’s not that bad, but don’t worry about it.”
New client: [Reluctantly leads me to the ‘mess.’] “This must just be the worst you’ve ever seen. I [or my spouse, or my parents, or my friends] think I’m a hoarder.”
Me: “No, really, you’re not; don’t be embarrassed.”
New client: “I bet you say this to everyone…”

Well my secret’s out. In truth, I do apparently say “this” to everyone. But, in my defense, it’s true! My clients tend to be very hard on themselves for no reason. Having clutter is nothing to be embarrassed about and it doesn’t make you a hoarder.

With the recent rise in television shows about hoarding, I think it’s on peoples’ radar more now than ever. To make matters worse, every hoarder starts by accumulating a little bit of clutter and adds to it. So, people fear that being a clutterbug will quickly devolve into full-scale hoarding.

I think people have begun defining hoarding to include anyone who has an excess of clutter and isn’t able to declutter on their own. Luckily, The Institute of Challenging Disorganization (yes, there is an institute) developed an objective hoarding scale that can assess homes.

And, guess what? I’m on the scale and you are too.Organized Home

The scale starts with a low level of clutter (level 1), and I’m guessing that’s where most people fit into the scale. The people who are in this group have a little bit of clutter, exits are accessible, there isn’t major disrepair and the home is in generally good working order. At the opposite end of the scale is the “severe” level (level 5). The people who are in this group have clutter everywhere. Multiple exits are blocked, the home is in great disrepair and the inhabitants are at risk because of mold, lack of fire exits, and animal infestations. There are three levels in between these two extremes, guarded, elevated, and high.

For each level, 5 areas are assessed in each: structure and zoning, animals and pests, household functions, health and safety, and personal protective equipment that should be used when working in the home. I’m reluctant to summarize each category because it can be easy to misdiagnose yourself. For example, one of the points under level 2 is that there are expired medications present. I have yet to work with a client who is always completely on top of properly disposing their medication as soon as it expires. However, just because expired medications are present, doesn’t mean they are a level 2 hoarder. Though it’s an objective tool, this scale is best used with a subjective mind.

If you’re interested in learning more or think you (or a loved one) might fit into levels 2-5, please email . I’d be happy to forward the Clutter Hoarding Scale to you. You can also learn more about hording by visiting the Institute of Challenging Disorganization at challengingdisorganization.org.

Virginia Maddan, The Comfortable Structure Organizer, is the founder of Comfortable Structure Organizing Solutions. Known for her custom, simple, easily maintained organizingsolutions, she also has the unique ability to simultaneously help her clients achieve their goals while reducing their stress. Her ability allows her clients to spend their time on things they love. For more information and specific solutions, contact Virginia via www.comfortablestructure.com.

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